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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.